In the early 1980’s, a beautiful raspberry liqueur named ‘Chambord’ was introduced in the United States by a man named Norton “Sky” Cooper. It was an instant hit in clubs and bars as a great addition to any number of classic cocktails. It added a sweet raspberry kick to anything from Champagne to kamikazes. Thirty-five years later, his two sons, John and Robert Cooper, are repeating that success with fantastic liqueurs of their own.
In 2006, Cooper sold his company, Charles Jacquin et Cie., for $255 million dollars, and the brothers decided to go off on their own. In 2007, John Cooper introduced Domaine de Canton, a premium Ginger Liqueur, and Robert Cooper introduced St-Germain, a liqueur made from eau-de-vie and the Elder flower, a small fragrant flower found in the French countryside.
St-Germain is floral tasting, but more reminiscent of pear nectar, red grapefruit, and lychee fruit. It compliments vodka, gin, and even Scotch. Like its cousin Chambord, it is a perfect fit with many classic drink combinations.
Last week, I attended a dinner at Fino restaurant at West 29th and San Gabriel. Brian Townsend, from St-Germain, was on hand to discuss the liqueur and guide us through a five-course dinner prepared by Executive Chef Jason Donoho.
Fino’s excellent bartender, Bill Norris, paired each of the courses with cocktails, including this wonderful liqueur.
Served with appetizers of grilled pork and stuffed olives, our first cocktail was called a Girasol, which included Fino Sherry, St-Germain, and homemade bitters of cardamom and saffron. Although served in a tall, thin glass filled with ice, it had an exotic warmth brightened by the pear-like flavors of the St-Germain.
Our first course was a Scallop Crudo, thinly-sliced raw scallop served with sections of grapefruit and a light emulsion infused with lavender and topped with a bit of sea salt. Norris paired this with a ‘Paloma Flower’, a drink made with tequila, grapefruit, St-Germain, grapefruit bitters, and whipped egg whites.
There was a great balance between the flavors and textures of the scallop and the grapefruit. The slight bitterness from the fruit and finishing crunch of sea salt was fantastic and echoed by the drink.
Our next course was a white Gazpacho–a puree of almonds, bread, and sherry with St-Germain-soaked green grapes and marcona almonds. This was paired with a ‘Cedar Fever’, made of gin, St-Germain, Pine Liqueur and classic Peychaud’s Bitters. The soup was refreshing and again played off the textures provided by the grapes and almonds.
The third course was a decadent Pork Belly Confit topped with Foie Gras, served with smoked whipped potatoes and apple matchsticks. This was the meatiest and best pork belly I have ever had. The smokiness of the meat and the potatoes, offset by the crunch of the apple, was fantastic. The ‘Scotch Surprise’, made with Dewer’s, St-Germain, Grenadine, Lemon, and chocolate bitters, was again a perfect counter to the pork.
Our last course, provided by guest Jennie Chin, was an amazing cupcake flavored with amaretto and containing raspberries and lychee fruit. The whole was topped off with butter frosting containing St-Germain. It was a great way to end a great meal. I kept the menu as a souvenir.
By Richard Arebalo